Hemlines have been around since the early Egyptian and Roman times worn by men and women alike. Skirts and dresses the most evident of hemlines slowly transformed over the centuries into quintessential style items of femineity and grace in the Western world. For centuries, the hemlines were to the floor in order to provide modest coverage and practicality. As time went on, the distance from the floor was nudged higher, for example the “walking dress” which came on the scene in the mid-1800’s. By the late 1900’s skirts had upped their way to the midcalf.
Starting in the early 1900’s, fashion in general became more daring – think flapper dressing which revealed, arms, cleavage and sometimes even thighs. The roaring 20’s was a statement of the post WW1 economic stability and the newfound power and liberation for women who had acquired the right to vote. They also enjoyed vibrant social lives which included dancing the night away in speakeasies and the private clubs so popular during Prohibition. Less fabric was practical for form and function, not only socially but in the ever growing female workforce and military participation.
Hemlines have raised and dropped several times in the past 100 years, suggesting the “hemline index,” a theory which, simply stated, pegs economic prosperity to the rise of hemlines and decline of the same.
Hemlines aren’t just a trend; they are a very real reflection of the dynamics at play in fashion, function and symbolism.
1930’s – 1940’s – a roller coaster of hem lengths following the shorter hems of the 1920’s. In 1947, Christian Dior’s “New Look” brought back voluminous skirts from the bygone era and hemlines were back to the ankle and floor. Although, it was probably a sign of luxury and counter balance to the austerity of wartime serious backlash resulted from women. The protesters started wearing their shortest skirts yet.
1960’s – The rebellious spirit created major shifts in fashion after the conservative 1950’s – think Donna Reed, Doris Day and the classic shirt waist dress. I was a child of the 50’s and did not like those dresses then, but I sure do now. Miniskirts were born and booming!! In 1960, almost half the US population was under the age of 18. Mary Quaint the designer most influenced by London Street style popularized the mini skirt, and it was the lanky legged gals like Twiggy who propelled them to unapparelled notoriety.
1970’s – back to maxi’s which were again a social statement. Hippie style dressing encouraged flowing free style in dresses, skirts and bell bottom pants rejecting the establishment.
1980’s – hemlines fluctuated again trending back up or midi length – power dressing influenced largely by Princess Diana captivated the public eye throughout the 80’s and 90’s. The mini skirt length returned, as did the midi asymmetrical. However, the 1980’s may very well have been the last time a single hemline defined an entire decade.
Fast forward, 2024 ANY thing goes in my opinion. Why? Well like the skinny versus non-skinny jeans debate; clothes should be worn to flatter your particular shape, lifestyle and cultural convictions. Enjoy multiple hem lengths and walk your way back and forth in time.
Be well, Be Stylish, Be Happy and Glow with me!